Nawab Moazam Khan, the ascent of Mount Harmukh’s Eastern Summit was not just a physical triumph, it was the culmination of a lifelong dream, one that demanded resilience, discipline, and unwavering passion.
Leading a three-member expedition, Khan became the first mountaineer in 126 years to successfully scale the elusive Eastern Summit of Mount Harmukh, a peak that last saw human footsteps in 1899, when British explorers Dr. Ernest Neve and Geoffrey Millais reportedly reached its top.
A resident of Buchpora, Srinagar, and a seasoned mountaineer affiliated with the Jammu and Kashmir Mountaineering and Adventure Club, Khan has long been at the forefront of adventure sports in the Valley. This recent climb marks his third major attempt on Harmukh, having previously conquered the Station and Triangular Peaks in 2015 and the Middle Peak in 2023.
The team, comprising Khan and brothers Ishfaq Ahmad Turk and Showkat Turk, set out from Kudara village in Bandipora on the evening of September 10. Their initial destination was Meemargi, where they reached by nightfall before camping at Dhoka.
In the early hours of the next day, the team pushed forward, navigating rugged terrain to reach the Advanced Base Camp at 4,700 meters by late morning. From there, the climb intensified. They scaled the Middle Peak (5,040m) by 2 PM and reached the Eastern Summit (5,100m) at 4:30 PM.
The descent was equally punishing. The team returned to base camp by 8 PM, and resumed their trek the next morning, finally reaching Kudara by 4:30 PM on September 12. The entire expedition, Kudara to summit and back, was completed in just 46 hours, setting a new benchmark for high-altitude mountaineering in the region.
“This is a dream realised after years of effort,” Khan told Rising Kashmir. “Standing atop the Eastern Summit, I felt the weight of history, and the hopes of every aspiring mountaineer in Kashmir, on my shoulders.”
He added that while the climb was physically demanding, it was the emotional and symbolic value that made it truly historic. “This is more than a personal achievement or a sporting milestone. It’s a message, that Kashmir’s youth are ready and capable, and that our mountains are not just scenery, but arenas of excellence.”
Mount Harmukh, located in the Ganderbal district, is one of the most challenging peaks in Kashmir. Known for its unpredictable weather and demanding terrain, the Eastern Summit had remained unscaled for over a century despite several attempts by climbers and expeditions.
With this successful ascent, Khan has added a new chapter to the history of mountaineering in the Valley, inspiring a new generation of adventurers to pursue their passion and explore the untamed beauty of Kashmir’s peaks.
“We hope this climb encourages others to step into the world of mountaineering, to challenge themselves, to respect the mountains, and to discover their strength,” Khan said.
